The mountains or the sea? It’s a question that keeps coming back. And although my heart skips a beat when I hear the ringing of cowbells in the wide Alpine meadows, I can also truly enjoy a few days of sun, sea, and sand. During our family holidays, I usually try to combine the best of both worlds. Last year, we travelled to the Catalan Pyrenees. From there, we made our way towards the salty sea breeze of the Costa Brava, crossing the province of Girona. A region that surprised us with its green mountain valleys, volcanic landscapes, charming towns, and hidden fishing coves.
Girona on the map
During our trip, we explore several regions of the province of Girona in the northeast of Catalonia. Our journey begins in the Girona Pyrenees and continues through the volcanic landscapes of La Garrotxa to Baix Empordà , the southern stretch of the Costa Brava. We finish in Alt Empordà , where the Costa Brava reveals its wildest side, before making our way back to France.
How to get there
Girona is surprisingly easy to reach from Belgium. We choose to travel by car, a drive of around 12 to 13 hours from Brussels. By planning an overnight stop along the way in France, the journey becomes very manageable, even with young children. Prefer to fly instead? You can fly into Girona-Costa Brava Airport, an ideal base for exploring both the Pyrenees and the Costa Brava. Once there, renting a car is highly recommended. This is the easiest way to discover the different regions at your own pace.
Girona Pyrenees
Not quite ready for the buzz of city life, we begin our journey with a midweek in the Catalan Pyrenees. Our home for the first days is a beautifully restored mountain farmhouse (cowbells gently included), tucked away near the medieval village of Sant Joan de les Abadesses.
Sleeping medieval villages
After months of deadlines, packed schedules and never-ending to-do lists, the quiet streets of Sant Joan de les Abadesses feel almost unreal. We arrive around lunchtime, when the midday heat and the traditional siesta keep most locals indoors, allowing us to explore the village and its impressive monastery in near silence. Between keeping up with our toddler and soaking up the atmosphere, we still manage to learn a little about the village’s rich history. For lovers of Romanesque architecture, the nearby town of Ripoll is also well worth a visit. Together with Sant Joan de les Abadesses, it offers the perfect introduction to the historic heart of the Girona Pyrenees.
1000 metres up by rack railway
After a few days of soaking up culture and splashing around in the pool at our agriturismo, the mountains start calling a little louder. Instead of lacing up our hiking boots, however, we hop aboard the nostalgic Cremallera de Núria, a rack railway that climbs to an idyllic mountain valley nearly 2,000 metres above sea level. I have nothing but admiration for the parents I see hiking up these trails with toddlers on their backs, but we’ve found our own way of enjoying the mountains, I guess. After all, there’s no single right way to experience a mountain holiday, right? The train takes us to Vall de Núria, a lush, car-free valley surrounded by mountain peaks. It’s a paradise for hikers and cyclists, but also wonderfully family-friendly, with farm animals, rowing boats and even a small adventure area complete with a tubing track and bouncy castle.
Meeting the wildlife of the Pyrenees
Another great family excursion is Molló Parc, located in the Camprodon Valley near the French border. It’s not a traditional zoo but a ten-hectare nature park where animals actually live in their natural habitat. Along a clearly marked three-kilometre walking route, we wander through open meadows and forests. Along the way, we encounter animals native to the Pyrenees, such as marmots, otters, chamois, and even bears. Our son’s face lights up completely by seeing all these animals. A perfect ending to our days in the Pyrenees.
WHERE TO STAY: El Serradell Agroturisme
From the moment we arrive at El Serradell Agroturisme, everything seems to slow down. Our toddler has already claimed a toy tractor in the garden before we’ve even unpacked. With its spacious apartments, lush garden and inviting swimming pool, this charming agriturismo quickly becomes more than just a base for exploring the Girona Pyrenees. It becomes part of the holiday itself.
La Garrotxa
On our way to our next destination, we make a stop in La Garrotxa, a lush, rolling landscape dotted with dozens of extinct volcanoes and ancient lava flows. Far too beautiful to simply drive past.
Walking through an extinct volcano
If you only have time for a short stop in this remarkable natural area, the short walk to the Croscat volcano is highly recommended. Part of the crater wall has been excavated, revealing the volcano’s distinct layers of volcanic rock. One small warning, though: at midday, this place is scorching hot. And yes, you can probably guess where this is going. At exactly 12 o’clock, we set off to start our hike. Not exactly our smartest travel decision, I would say.
A village in festive mood
Anyone who has been following along for a while might have noticed that I have a soft spot for old villages, where narrow cobbled streets invite you to wander and every corner seems to reveal another hidden detail. Even though we had agreed to limit ourselves to just one stop today, I manage to convince my husband to make a quick detour to the medieval village of Santa Pau, just five minutes away. The locals are busy preparing for the upcoming festivities, and colourful flags flutter above the Plaça Major. Our son, now happily perched on his dad’s shoulders, watches it all with wide-eyed curiosity.
Baix EmpordÃ
With our arrival on the Costa Brava, the quiet rhythm of the Pyrenees is unmistakably replaced by a more lively holiday atmosphere. And while I need a little time to adjust, my travel companions are clearly sold from the very first moment. Our accommodation is located close to the sea and comes with a huge water park and beautifully themed swimming pools. Still, we’re eager to explore more of the coastline. The coast turns out to be surprisingly diverse, with rugged cliffs, idyllic coves and charming villages overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
A yellow boat
For days, we’ve been wondering about the rocky islands group rising just offshore. They turn out to be the Medes Islands, one of the Mediterranean’s most important marine nature reserves. Curious to see what lies beneath the surface, I book a trip on the Nautilus, a glass-bottom boat. We hope to catch a glimpse of the rich underwater world, since snorkelling isn’t really an option for us just yet. But, as so often happens when travelling with young children, things don’t quite go according to plan. We miss the boat as the car parks at the harbor are completely full. Luckily for us, we’re able to rebook our tickets for a later departure. Bonus: we unexpectedly gain two extra hours to explore the harbour town of L’Estartit and squeeze in a quick tapas lunch. We’ve certainly had worse setbacks.
A touch of Cuba
While the nearby village of Pals is said to be beautiful, we decide to continue a little further to Begur. We set off to explore the picturesque historic centre (strolling is definitely no longer the right word since we’re travelling with a toddler). Along the way, we pass strikingly colourful houses that immediately remind us of the villas we saw along the Costa Verde. And that resemblance turns out to be no coincidence. These are the so-called Casas Indianas, built by Spanish emigrants returning from the Americas and Cuba. My favourite photo spot in town is the colourful staircase in Carrer de Santa Reparada. But Begur is, of course, best known for its medieval fortress, of which only ruins remain today. A short but steep climb takes us up from the village centre to the castle. There, we’re rewarded with sweeping views over the coastline and the Medes Islands.
The hidden coves of Begur
By now, the afternoon heat is becoming impossible to ignore, so we make our way to the coast in search of a refreshing swim. What starts as a spontaneous detour leads us to Sa Tuna, one of the Costa Brava’s most picturesque beaches. Tucked between rugged cliffs, this tiny bay is lined with whitewashed houses and old fishing boats. It’s the perfect place to catch our breath after a day of exploring. The pebbles under our feet are a small price to pay for a spot like this.
WHERE TO STAY: El DelfÃn Verde Resort
This resort is an excellent choice for families travelling to the Costa Brava with young children. The resort is divided into several themed areas, each featuring its own kids pools. As a guest, you also have access to the resort’s spectacular water park, making it almost impossible to try everything in a single day. After a day spent by the water, returning to the comfort of our holiday home feels like the perfect ending.
Girona town
With temperatures climbing towards forty degrees (what can you expect when travelling to Spain in August), we slowly start to rethink our plan for a day trip trip to Girona. In this kind of heat, the idea of navigating through the streets with an overtired, overstimulated toddler doesn’t feel particularly appealing. Been there, done that. So we end up keeping it to a brief stop on our journey, which I genuinely regret. After all, this is the city that shares its name with this stunning region.
Too often, Girona is seen as a starting point rather than a destination in its own. Unfairly, if you ask us. Girona has a rich history, with a surprising amount of heritage packed into a relatively small area. Thanks to its compact size, the historic centre is perfect to explore on foot, wandering through narrow alleys and atmospheric squares. The iconic postcard view is, of course, the colourful houses lining the Onyar River. It’s a first impression that lingers and the one that makes me decide I will return for a proper city trip.
When visiting Girona with children, it’s worth keeping in mind that the historic centre comes with plenty of stairs. Beautiful for photos, less ideal when you’re pushing a buggy uphill. So if you can, leave it behind in the car.
WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Nord 1901
Just a short stroll from Girona’s historic centre, Hotel Nord 1901 offers a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city. With its warm boutique charm and stylish interiors, it feels instantly inviting. The leafy courtyard, complete with a swimming pool, is an unexpected oasis to return to after a day of exploring the city.
Alt EmpordÃ
Before making our way back towards France, we visit Alt Empordà , where the Costa Brava is at its most rugged and untamed.
The light in Cadaqués
Cadaqués is rightfully considered one of the most beautiful fishing villages on the Costa Brava. From the moment we arrive, it feels like stepping into a postcard: whitewashed houses set against a bright blue sky. Although it’s the details that truly complete the picture: lush climbing roses spilling over façades, colourful murals and artistic touches on almost every corner. It’s no coincidence that Cadaqués has been attracting artists for decades. The most famous artist among them is undoubtedly Salvador DalÃ, who drew endless inspiration from the unique light and the raw coastal landscape.
Grande finale
The perfect ending to a trip to Girona, however, is to make one last final stop at Cap de Creus. It is here, at the northeasternmost point of mainland Spain, that the Costa Brava truly lives up to its name. A rugged coastline, dramatic cliffs and wide views stretching into the horizon and a landscape that feels like it has been stripped back to its essentials.
Graciès Girona!
Take the time to also explore the lesser-known side of Catalonia, and you’ll quickly realise that this region has far more to offer than its well-known hotspots and crowded beaches. With our journey through Girona, we discovered a surprisingly diverse and family-friendly region, where lush mountain valleys, charming villages and vibrant coastal towns flow effortlessly into one another.
